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Big Sur Balance, Becoming A Piece Of The California Coast
A recent trip to Big Sur with my wife had me thinking about how I am able to focus my attention to her but also accomplish some of my photography goals as well. Every man’s first concern is the well being of their better half, of course, right? I can usually figure out our activities based on both of our attitudes, energy and effort. Some of our journeys are very improvised and we are willing to be gone all day as long as we have some snacks. Snacks are very important. Other days a few lookouts from the car and maybe a few naps is all we can handle. Big Sur is a well balanced place where reading and eating can be balanced with steep hikes and long walks on the beach.
Our first trip through Big Sur was just a drive through, probably like most people driving from L.A. to San Francisco. This time we were celebrating our wedding anniversary and due to Paul’s Slide near Lucia there would be no through traffic. Paul’s Slide is a huge landslide that closed Highway 1 this spring and the terrain is rough and steep so it might be awhile before it is repaired. We were lucky and I was able to get accommodations at Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn. These cozy cabins and restaurant have been a staple for over 75 years. Located just south of Big Sur, Deetjen’s had a nice quiet atmosphere. A creek running through Castro’s Canyon could be heard the entire time we hungout. The location was tucked away in a beautiful redwood forest and offered no wi-fi. The result of no wi-fi and no cell service equals peace and serenity. As a husband and wife, we enjoy a good game of scrabble, I usually lie around and edit photography, we both enjoy reading and just each other’s company. A charcuterie plate and a bottle of wine are usually involved as well. None the less we enjoy our non-connected time.
The advantage of staying in Big Sur overnight for 3 nights is the ability to see and experience some of Big Sur’s unique physical attractions. There is nothing like having less stress when you want to see a sunset or sunrise and it is only down the road instead of a 2-3 hour drive. Also, most traffic on the Pacific Coast Highway doesn’t start until about 11am. And then most tourists are looking for food and shopping. We really enjoy the early start, it helps get parking and most locations are less crowded.
We drove in on a Friday, checked in and immediately went down to Deetjen’s for one of our best meals ever. The dining room is an eclectic collection of plates, planters and relics from around the world. The decorations are accompanied by a dark and cozy atmosphere heated by a few fireplaces. A true European feel. The restaurant totes a great wine list, with local and international choices. Everything we ordered was local and fresh. I worked in the restaurant business for years and the way the dishes were engineered here were thoughtful and innovative. A roasted fig salad with prosciutto, arugula, citrus and cheeses was an amazing introduction to what we were getting into. I could go on about our great culinary experience but let’s move on. Just a final note on Deetjen’s for dinner, it is definitely on the list of the things that make Big Sur what Big Sur is. I am grateful that this place is open and running as a non-profit for a place on the National Register Of Historic Landmarks.
Why would I say that, well, in our room we discovered a guest book that previous guests had added anecdotes and reflections about Deetjen’s. Many of these stories were very moving, emotional and touching. This tiny property in a canyon on the California coast has impacted so many lives. People come here to heal, celebrate, create and relax. California’s government policies almost took the life of this Big Sur Inn and many people wrote in the book that Deetjen’s had closed indefinitely in 2020 and it was thought that it would never reopen as it previously was. This is why I am grateful. People are vulnerable when they write in this book. They share about the passing of a spouse, a love that got away, regrets from decisions that they made 50 years ago. It is amazing that Big Sur makes us all honest with ourselves. Reflection and planning were some of the things we started to do as we became a part of our peaceful wood cabin. As you lay around in a place that has so much mana you can’t help but want to improve yourself, you owe it to the people that built these places, the people that maintain them and the people that will find it in the future.
We left our home base many times looking for all the treasures Big Sur provides. The coast is steep and protects most of the beach access. There are many easy paths though that help you get to the pristine waters. The colors of the sand, water and plants are a creation of a fine artist. The smell of eucalyptus and the ocean fight for your attention. We discovered an amazing beach the first day that was miles long and one end was bordered by a river coming from the mountains . There were keiki learning to surf and paddle boarding in the small pond that was created from damning the river. The coastal fog was still thick and keeping the air cool. The weather here is dynamic and can not be assumed. We enjoyed the company of the birds on our long walk weaving around giant tentacles of seaweed. Pelicans were flying in formations and diving into the water, cormorants were dipping into the surf and long-billed curlews were digging up insects in the sand. Large rocks appeared to be biscuits floating on the water, were covered with hundreds of different species of seabirds. An amazing eco-system to wander through.
Another location that we discovered and rediscovered each day was the Big Sur Bakery. For me, this bakery has mastered the croissant and variants similar to the croissant. Their finished product is crisp, buttery and flaky. We came here each morning and indulged in sweet and savory treats. Maple bacon bow ties, ham and cheese stuffed croissants and cheddar and chive scones made up my diet for most of our weekend. A day later and I am still munching on a maple bacon bow tie that made it home with us somehow.
We discovered Pfeiffer beach one night and we were turned away because it was too busy and has very limited parking. We returned the next morning and entered as maybe the third card there. It was empty and the beauty of an empty beach SURpasses any sunset for me. So many locations have been ruined by over-tourism, but there is always a bright side, you just have to plan to come early and not on a weekend. Going to a beach early is always a treat. There are shells, driftwood and all kinds of treasure that wash up with the tides. We found a really large abalone shell, sea urchins and a few cone shells, all were uninhabited. Besides the gifts that Poseidon left for us, this beach is one of the most beautiful I have set foot on. This is saying something since, I lived in Hawaii for a quarter of my life. The sandy bluffs and buttes glow gold and warm against the teals and blues of the Pacific. A cypress forest behind you looks like a creepy tunnel into a fantasy world. A swimmer entered the cold waters and we thought that he may not return, a suicide mission, going into the kelp forests where sharks were sharpening their teeth waiting for mammals to foolishly enter the territory. Pfeiffer Beach was the Big Sur experience, a chest full of pirates booty, a defining scene etched into our memory forever.
We stumbled upon the Henry Miller Library. A cabin nestled in a corner of a hairpin turn through a canyon and a redwood forest on the PCH. What a setting. I am an avid reader but definitely miss the mark when it comes to commitment. I enjoy reading about nature and adventurers from the past. I knew nothing about Henry Miller before this day and now I feel like we may have been best friends in the past. It is amazing that history repeats itself and we allow it. Henry Miller describes what being a creator was like around the Great War eras. He passed in 1980 but a lot of what I have read in the Tropic of Cancer so far seems to be appropriate to current day politics and society norms. The Big Sur that Henry Miller describes is a dream for most artists and also reveals the biggest issue of all. Why do we not celebrate artists more? It is a deep question, because, how can you define what art is today. We recently went to the Huntington Library in L.A. and it is filled with books, paintings and sculptures from decades and even centuries ago. Where and what is art from this period? Is it digital and created on a computer? Is it video? What do we call this period? The Corrupting of Society. An artist rarely is successful financially and Henry Miller states that the better the artist or writer is the more impoverished they become. When I create a piece of art, most likely a landscape photograph or some kind of abstract photograph, it is created for myself. I am infatuated with the way it makes me feel and it helps me return to the moment. I think why did I see it that way or why did I create it in that vision and then it makes me happy. Typically, friends, family and even strangers who see my work compliment me on how my art makes them feel or how great the image is. This is about all that I get out of my creation it reassures my process but in no way will it deter or encourage my creating. I will always do this and it will never make me any money and that is the realization of artists past, present and future. So we hope that through the Henry Millers of the world maybe one day art will be important. Of course, his teachings were banned when published because they were gospel that said money, jobs and society are worthless to the soul. Artists will always thrive on the fringes and their lives are full when they are isolated in the woods or cliffs and canyons of places like Big Sur.
Our last night in Big Sur we hiked up to a bench high above Highway 1 to watch the sunset. It felt as if we were in a time that was more romantic and more satisfying. When you worked your own land for yourself and there is nobody to bother you. No TV telling you about all the problems. Helga’s bench was a time machine that took you to any year that you wanted. You could be a child or enjoying your last days. This bench and this place is Big Sur. The ocean below the clouds below the sun at eye level the peaks above and the towering redwoods in front of you.
