Granite Cliff Studio

Haleakalā has so many special things about it. The fact that it is a 10,000 foot tall mountain in the middle of the Pacific Ocean is the first thing. The second amazing thing is that it is home to the Hawaiian Petrel. Also know as the Ua’u, know for it’s moaning noises sounding like, ‘eeww ah ewww.” When closer to their grown dwellings though, my wife claims they sound like monkeys, with various chirps and barks. The Hawaiian Petrel is an endangered endemic species. Because of its ground dwellings that attract predators and increasing artificial lights that confuse and exhaust these birds, the population has become very scarce.

Kapalaoa Cabin is located in Haleakala National Park. I had the opportunity to stay a few nights in the month of May a few years ago. The cabin is located next to steep cliffs away from any light sources. If you have had an opportunity to stay at this cabin, it’s a nice stop on your way to Palikū Cabin or out the Kaupo Gap to the sea. Scenery is exceptional but not as exciting as some of the other cabins. What happens after the sunsets here is what makes this location ideal. May is breeding season and the male and female take turns incubating and feeding fledglings.

As soon as it becomes dark here, which is really dark, the silence breaks. It starts with a swoosh, an Ua’u soars right overhead. With a 3 foot wingspan these seabirds are quite large. Another swoosh, the seabirds start flying to and from the ocean in search of food. Next, chirps from nests, gurgling and barking. What is possibly one of the quiet places on the planet is now an orchestra of hundreds of seabirds. As your eyes adjust to the darkness and the moon and stars start to provide a glow, the Ua’u becomes visible. A bright white under belly on Ua’a shines in the night. It appears you are standing on the ground in a hurricane of seabirds blowing back and forth overhead.

Recently, my wife and I ventured up to Haleakalā for a sunset and stayed later to visit with the Hawaiian Petrels. It was a privilege to again get to see and hear a healthy population near the visitor center near the summit. As soon as the parking lot emptied of sunset seekers, the action started. We found a little corner where the wind was blocked so we could hear and sure enough the Ua’a soared right in front of our faces. We could hear fledglings just steps away in the rocks. Another special experience at Haleakala National Park.

Please help support Maui Nui Seabird Recovery Project. Programs to help recover downed seabirds and promote dark skies need our assistance. Hopefully, this article raised a little awareness and might save a few of the Ua’u.