Granite Cliff Studio

It has been almost two weeks since our recent staycation on the east side of Maui and the feeling still lingers. What remains is a memory of relaxation and peace. The jagged rocks along the Pi’ilani trail and the waves crashing are still a clear vision inside my head. When I close my eyes and picture all the flowers surrounding us, I can smell the night jasmine, almost a permanent stain in my nose. While I am walking in a daydream, I see the coconuts on the ground and try to meander my way around the recent sprouts.

There are many places in the world that claim to be healing or spiritual, but I argue Hana and the east side of Maui are on the top of that list.

The alaloa or long road on this journey was not like we remembered. There were no tour buses or jeeps. We saw only a dozen trucks coming from Hana. We only encountered one slow oblivious tourist. This pales in comparison to the days where small parks and toilet breaks would be full of buses and disrespectful joy seekers. My wife and I joked that when tourism does comeback they should only allow personal vehicles and it should be regulated to a certain number each day. This was possible in Denali National Park where the only way to drive the Road to Kantishna was to win a lottery. Beside the point, the drive along the Road to Hana was extra special and enjoyable.

It was a day that Peahi was going off and the ocean was full of energy. Every glance to the left we would ooh and aw. It truly was a special trip. A short stop at Keanae was impressive. A local family was enjoying the high surf. Waves like we had never seen, crashing and hissing. The view back up to the highway from Keanae normally brings the reaction, “I can’t believe we just drove that.” This day was more of a, “what a beautiful day for drive.” Again, as the family ventured on, we were alone for awhile in such a special place. Tranquility as it is meant to be.

We arrived in Hana and made a pit stop at one of the many fruit stands. A bounty for us to enjoy. The taste of freshness from passionfruit, bananas and oranges on the east side is like no other.

After we enjoyed a nice lunch at one of the many picnic tables open at Wainapanapa State Park, we started a hike along the coast towards Hana Bay. Strolling along the coast was quite a sight, this area felt sacred and rich with mana. There were large pohaku placed within the gravel as perfect footsteps. This was originally a walking path for ali’i. The arches, blowholes and tide pools appeared like none other in the world. What a creation! The coast was vicious and beautiful at the same time, large swells crashed, wind blew the Hala and coconut trees and we walked carefully through the sharp lava. An experience that will be unforgettable. Mahalo!

After a long drive and an unexpected hike we checked into our home for 3 nights. It would be a reservoir for us in-between our Hana adventures. A charming plantation style home perched on a hill near Hamoa beach. This area of Hana was dense with homes but privacy was still obtainable. Hana must go on and people must live their lives even when outsiders desire to share their special home. R-E-S-P-E-C-T. When visiting Hana, we like to keep a low profile. There are many outdoor activities but most are on private land or cultural and historic areas. It is best to just go to public beaches and the national and state parks.

Our first awakening in Hana was amazing! The sunrise was layers of orange, pink and purple. The songbirds surrounded us. It was like being in a rainforest treehouse with all the creatures dancing around us. We took a walk down the road just to enjoy the cool weather and precious air. Our plans were to do as little as possible. Koki Beach was our only destination. It was cool and shady and we enjoyed watching the frigates take off and soar over our heads.

On our way we made a pitstop at Tony’s food truck. Tony’s was recommended by a friend and it did not disappoint. Fresh fish and local style healthy food was just what we needed. Cooking is fine when you have a kitchen but this was spectacular. Eating fish caught in a place that is mostly sustenance living could not be more rewarding. Knowing that the community provides only what they need and waste is not an option because that is your energy that is used and not money is enlightening and gives a real sense of gratitude. I, personally, really commend this lifestyle and hope that this will remain for many more generations.

The evenings were filled with libations and star gazing. It was my birthday arriving the next day and I was excited to howl at the moon. Well, I had already been excited for this trip because as an avid astrophotographer, I knew that it was a new moon on this day. How exciting to face a new direction on an island and see the stars. It felt like a blank canvas. the Milky Way was rich and saturated. The setting was surreal.

My wife knows I am a national park junkie and Haleakala may be one of the best. I proposed to her there, we have camped in every corner and we thoroughly enjoy the sunrises and sunsets. Haleakala is the ultimate diverse environment. The geology, history, plants and birds are like a fantasy book for a young man from Wisconsin. So a Kipahulu day was a special present for my birthday.

The rain had hit hard and we loved it. We questioned if we could even make the trek. Worried about mudslides and debris in the road we discussed alternative plans. And then we agreed we would just go. Fear on my wife’s face was unlike I had ever seen before. These roads are dangerous and the last time we were here we had a little adversity. It is not for the faint of heart to go from Hana to Kipahulu and beyond. Especially, in a small Toyota Corolla!

Well, to our fortune as soon as we got in the car the sun was shining. Many of you may not know but when crossing a lot of the bridges on this route the waterways stay empty. Today, we experienced it like no other, every stream was gushing with water from the mountain. Waterfalls were everywhere! We preceded to Kipahulu and arrived just after opening time. Normally it can be challenging to find parking but this was not the case today. Maybe 5 cars in the parking lot. We chose just to hangout and enjoy the lower area of Oheo Gulch as we have been here many times before and it seemed it would be a muddy tumultuous hike. It was a great sanctuary and only saw a handful of people. But, birds were everywhere and it seemed as if they had not seen humans as they were curious and would come close. A national park should always be a place where wildlife, plants and the aina thrive.

Our last hours in Hana were nothing short of spectacular. The drive home was again one of our best experiences due to less traffic. This year has been rough, as many of our freedoms have been taken away. I know the east side of Maui has a sensitive environment and can not withstand large groups of tourists that may or may not be healthy. In closure, I am so thankful that I was allowed to enter and spend time in your community. We love and support all our Hana friends and family and want to give a big mahalo!